MOJAVE SOLO
If you spend a lot of time alone
like I do, at times you seek contact, friends, a familiar coffee shop for a
hamburger or just to talk to somebody.
There are other times, however, when
you embrace solitude. Even seek it out. Not just being by yourself while among
others in a library, but being so far from civilization you hear the silence.
Thick, broad-reaching, quiet. The desert is the perfect place.
I checked in with the Mojave
Preserve Visitors Center in Barstow to see about road conditions, weather, and to
ask about the best places for photography. The two ladies were friendly and
helpful.
“Turn in at the radio tower, and
climb up the ridge,” she said. “You’ll have a 360 degree view of the valleys
and the mountains.” I wanted to get back before dark, and she advised me of
mileages and suggested alternative routes.
Sixty two miles from the Visitors
Center, Kelbaker Road is the thru-way from Interstate 40 and Interstate 10, a
north-south road that descends into the Kelso Dunes and the train depot, then
ascends to the great plateau and the lava flows.
The ridge was cold and windy,
overlooking the bubble-like rock formations of the Granite Mountains. Spindly
creosote bushes seem as if they’d been recently electrocuted. The granite
boulders of the mountain ridge look like pebbles scattered by a desert giant.
Up on the plateau the light begins
to etch the desert in an afternoon glow. The washes, the brush, and far-away
cinder cones light up to form the distant horizon.
Only a few vehicles travel Kelbaker Road on this Friday
afternoon. The desert is mine. Wind whispers, the silence is eternal.
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